Until 1923, Kayaköy, aka Levissi, was a
thriving village with a population of several thousand people. Today it is a
ghost town of deserted houses, shops, schools and churches.
First inhabited around 3,000 BC, as the ancient
city of Carmylessus, it had at its height a population of about 20,000 people,
and remained an important trading city until 1100 AD.
Built on the site of Carmylessus in the 18th
century, Kayaköy, or Karmylassos, as it
was called in Greek, had been continually inhabited since at least the 13th
century. Turks and Greeks had lived together there since the 1st century BC,
with the Turks maintaining the fields and the Greeks provided the trades and
craftsmen.
After the Greco-Turkish War of 1919-1922, Greek
residents were resettled in a poor suburb outside Athens. In exchange, Turks were
brought from Northern Greece to Kayaköy, but, unaccustomed to the climate and
living conditions, moved to other parts of Turkey within the first year,
leaving the place abandoned.
About 400 ruined stone houses climb the
hillside along cobbled streets. They are positioned so as not to overshadow one
another and to allow each to have a view over the valley. Scattered among the
houses are numerous chapels, a school, a customs house and two large churches,
one with its ceiling still displaying the faint outline of frescoes. Any timber
in the buildings has either been removed or rotted away, and vegetation grows
inside.
Today Kayaköy exists as an open air museum.
Each year many of the descendants of those Greeks expelled in 1923 return for a ceremony of
remembrance and reconciliation.